The 4 Platanos Cafe Restaurante is tucked away in the northwest corner of Sao Miguel, in the village of Santo Antonio. It’s a modern, purpose-built building with a stunning view across the coast towards the city of Ribera Grande – however, glass frontage and tiled floors mean it can be quite noisy when the restaurant is full (and it invariably is – booking early is advised). The menu is traditional and includes all the Azorean classics, and the quality is usually quite high.
4 Platanos is a good option if you’re staying at one of the lovely, traditional-style cottages at Casa do Monte nearby the north coast town of Capelas (Casa Lareira and Casa do Pompal). Unfortunately, the narrow country road means it isn’t really practical to walk there – it’s a three-minute drive.Heading east and through Capelas, you’ll come to the village of Sao Vicente Ferreira. Look out for Solar o Rei dos Frangos on Rua do Outeiro: they specialise in chicken, the staff are extremely welcoming, and their open-plan restaurant has a rustic and sociable feel. They’re only open until 10pm.
Coming into the old fishing town of Rabo de Peixe, you’ll find a wealth of unpretentious, local restaurants serving straight-up Azorean food. It’s always worth checking the specials before you get draw into the menu, and the house wines are usually spot on. Botequim Acoriano is a family favourite for brothers Nuno and Rui who organise our airport transfers so efficiently. Fifteen years ago, O Pescador used to be one of the go-to restaurants for seafood, thanks to its proximity to the fishing harbour. You’d easily find better presentation in Ponta Delgada, but for simply prepared fresh fish it’s still up there with the best on the island.
This next recommendation will often initiate a heated argument amongst Azorean friends. The Restaurante da Associacao Agricola (also in Rabo do Peixe) is renowned for its steaks. Some say the best steaks on the island – that crown was once undisputedly held by the Restaurant Alcides in Ponta Delgada, and that’s where the argument begins. The quality of the steaks at the Associacao is more consistently high, but there’s a more mellow, intimate atmosphere to the old stone-architecture of Alcides.
The Alves Devine Chocolantinho is also worth a special mention. Pastry chef and chocolatier Tiago Alves is combining Sao Tomean cacao with a wide variety of local ingredients, such as Gorreana green tea, fortified Lajido wine from Pico, and pineapples from here on Sao Miguel, to create fifty-seven (and counting) unique Azorean flavour combinations. You can purchase his chocolates and truffles by weight from the shop, and seasonal products such as ovos da pascoa (easter eggs) or birthday cakes via his website. If you have a sweet tooth, it’s well worth making a detour for a coffee and one of his stunning brownies.One of the island’s most-interesting food projects is a five-minute drive inland from Rabo de Peixe. Quinta dos Sabores is a fabulous ‘farm-to-table’ restaurant which opened in 2007. Owners Ines and Paulo don’t offer a menu – you’ll be served five imaginative courses based around the seasonal, organic produce which they grow in the fields and polytunnels surrounding the quinta. There are only nine tables so booking early is a must (by email: quintadossabores3@gmail.com), and be sure to let them know your dietary preferences and any allergies you might have. The last time we visited, it was cash only.
Taking a short detour down to the surfers beach at Santa Barbara – the Tuká Tulá Bar is another great sea-and-sunset location, and perfect for lunch if you’re planning a day at the beach:
Heading west along the coast, you’ll come to another of our old favourites: the Restaurante Cantinho Do Cais in Sao Bras. Owner Jorge is famous for fish soup (sopa da peixe) and his stews (caldeirada de peixe).
We’ll often recommend a visit to the Fábrica de Chá Gorreana – the tea planation at Gorreana, the oldest tea planation in Europe (founded in 1883). Less well-known is their excellent café where you can eat lunch overlooking the planation – there’s also a gift shop where you can pick-up some of their excellent Pekoe teas:
Our Where to eat guides are based on our first-hand experiences and our love of great Portuguese cuisine:
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